Ama Dablam Expedition

Popularly known as the ‘Matterhorn of the Himalaya’, the overwhelming ice-coated granite pyramid of Ama Dablam dominates the sky above the trekker’s trail to the Everest Base Camp. The mountain derives its name from the glacier lying on its Southwest face. The glacier looks like a jewel box hanging on the neck of the mountain, hence the name Ama Dablam, literally meaning ‘The Mother’s Jewel Box’. Interestingly, when a team led by Edmund Hillary scaled the mountain for the first time, Nepal’s King nearly imprisoned Hillary for climbing the sacred Ama Dablam without permission.

The standard ascent to Ama Dablam is made via the South-Western Ridge, the same route followed by Ward (UK), Bishop (USA) and Gill (NZ) in the first ascent of the mountain in 1961. The route offers varied and sustained climb with reasonable level of difficulty. Three high camps are set up at strategic points. The climb is moderate up to Camp 1, then it gets challenging up along the narrow granite ridge. Negotiating pitches of steep ice and snow slopes, the route gets more technical from Camp 2. From Camp 3, skirt around the hanging glacier or the Dablam, cross snow arete (A sharp ridge) and bergschrund(A gap or crevasse at the edge) between ice cliffs, and scale the summit.


Day 1. Arrival in Kathmandu (1,300m)

Langtang Ri Trekking & Expedition representative will greet you in an airport & transfer you to your Hotel, after refreshment you will be picked from hotel lobby to office where you will be formally introduced to your Guide and the activities to be enjoyed over the next few days. We will also ask for your passport photographs and any other details required for your trek permits, at this stage.

Day 2. Briefing (1,300m)

Today is the brefing day at Nepal tourism board.

Day 3. Fly to Lukla & Trek to Phakding (2,810m)

After breakfast, we will be taken to the domestic terminal of TIA for an early morning flight to Lukla. After flying above the breathtaking green and white mountains, we reach Tenzing-Hillary Airport at Lukla. This is one of the most beautiful air routes in the world culminating in a landing on a hillside surrounded by high mountains. Upon our arrival at Lukla, we meet our crew members and after some packing and preparation, we start our trek through the prosperous village of Lukla until we reach Phakding. To assist in acclimatization, we only have a short hike today. However, if interested in additional activities, we can take a side trip to a nearby monastery.

Day 4. Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3,440m)

After breakfast we walk through beautiful pine forests and then along Dudh Koshi River ending our nature-filled journey at Namche Bazaar. After walking for almost over an hour, we come across the glistening Mt. Thamserku (6,608m) on our right and also experience the serenity of pine, fir and juniper forests throughout our journey. If the weather is clear, we may even catch a glimpse of Mt. Everest peering over the Lhotse-Nuptse ridge. We continue walking until we reach the entrance to Sagarmatha National Park, Namche Bazaar, the gateway to Mt. Everest and main trading centre of this region. This day we cross five suspension bridges, the last one also known as the Hillary Bridge being the highest. It is an uphill walk from Hillary Bridge to Namche Bazaar.

Day 5. Acclimatization in Namche (3,400m)

This is the day set aside for acclimatization. Health experts recommend that we stay active and move around even during the rest day instead of being idle. There are a few options set aside for this day. We can either stroll around Namche’s quaint villages or come in contact with the Sherpa people and their rich culture, or we can hike up to the Everest View Hotel and enjoy an up-close view of the mighty Everest. While in the Namche village or upon returning from the hike to the Everest View Hotel, trekkers may also visit the local museum containing exhibits displaying the area’s native flora and fauna as well as the history of the Mount Everest region. For trekkers who want to hike for a little longer, a hike to Khumjung village (5-6 hours) may also be an option. While in the village we can visit the Edmund Hillary School and Khumjung Monastery (a monastery famous for housing the head of the Yeti!).

Day 6. Namche to Tengboche (3,800m)

We trek further along the Everest route and pass through beautiful villages and cross the Dudh Koshi River while also enjoying magnificent views of the Himalayan peaks along the way like Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. After ascending on a steep trail we reach the Tengboche Monastery and spend some time there. Later we descend to Debuche to spend the night.

Day 7. Tengboche to Pheriche (4,243m)

We hike to another village called Pangboche on our way to Pheriche. Pangboche is a scenic village surrounded by Everest to its north, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, and Kangtaiga to the east, the Kongde range to the south and the ImjaTse river flowing through the wide fertile valley.From here, we continue further up towards Pheriche, another beautiful village for an overnight stay.

Day 8. Acclimatization days at Pheriche (4,243m)

We have optimum number of acclimatization days to minimize the chances of anyone being affected by AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). Today we climb a terrain above the Pheriche village as it is well suited to give us a hiking experience in a cold condition. We walk up a slope overlooking the high Himalayan valleys.

Day 9. Pheriche to Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,600m)

We begin by trekking back to Pangboche and crossing the Dudh Koshi River. Next, we ascend on a trail which will take us to the Ama Dablam Base Camp. The Base Camp is a large open grassy area where we will be spending the rest of the day for acclimatization.

Day 11-25. Climbing Period (6,856m)

Base Camp to Camp 1 (4,570m to 5,700m):

The Ama Dablam Base Camp is a broad, grassy plain at an altitude of 4,570m/14988ft. Camp 1 lies at 5,700m/18696ft. So, it’s about 1000m long walk from the Base Camp to Camp 1. Cimb up along a morainal gravel ridge slope. Then cross a boulder field on the South-West ridge. There is a stream with fresh water so the place is also sometimes used as advanced base camp. It takes about 5-6 hours to get to Camp 1 which is perched on a steep rocky area. Generally, one night is spent at camp 1 for acclimatization and then returning to the Base Camp for the final preparation to scale the summit.

Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5950m):

The ascent from Camp 1 to camp 2 is the most technical part of the expedition. Cross the exciting granites slabs and snowy patches. The most challenging part is the rock tower, also called Yellow Tower, just before Camp 2. The climb between Camp 1 and the Yellow Tower is mostly class 3-4. Follow existing fixed lines, the Sherpas fix new ropes wherever necessary. Camp 2 is a narrow exposed area atop a rock pillar therefore it’s better to get informed if there is already any group staying at Camp 2. Takes about 4-5 hrs.

Camp 2 to Camp 3 (6,400m):

Camp 2 to Camp 3 involves climbing on the steep ridge over the 70-degree couloir. The intimidating rock wall of the Grey Tower tests your stamina. Put on your crampons in order to climb a steep pitch of rock and ice. Better make use of your jumar as backup for safety. Cross the snow and ice with patches of bare rock at places leading a knife-edge, crested with snow, and overhung on both sides – the Mushroom Ridge. The Mushroom ridge links the mixed terrain on the South-West ridge below to the snowy field above of the summit. It takes about 3-4 hours from Camp 2 to Camp 3.

Camp 3 to Summit (6856m):

Camp 3 lies on a relatively flat snow field just above the big snow Mushroom Ridge. The summit climb is very cold and exposed. The route is mostly straight up but comparatively less technical than before. The climb is about a 3-4 hours climb up then about 3 hours down. The Sherpas set up fixed ropes wherever necessary. Continue up the steep snow slopes. Haul yourself up the near vertical ice-pitch. On a clear dry day, the summit looks awesome. Marvel at the breathtaking views of the Everest, Lhotse and Makalu unfolding before your eyes. Stay at camp 3 for the night and return to base camp the following day.

Day 26. Base Camp to Tengboche (3,800m)

Our group treks back to Tengboche.

Day 27. Tengboche to Namche (3,440m)

Mostly down hill today it will take you 4 to 5 hours, there is a steep climb for about an hour before you encounter the scenic walk back into Namche. From Khumjung you can pass through Khunde where you may enjoy a visit to the little monastery if you haven’t already.

Day 28. Namche to Lukla (2,886m)

Trek to Lukla (2886m.) and it takes about four ho rs. You re-trace your steps along the Dudh Koshi, crossing the western bank at Benkar. It is a beautiful and easy walk through blue pine and rhododendron forest, back-dropped with views of Kusum Kangaru. An early lunch will be taken at Phakding and in the afternoon you ascend out of the river valley back to the airstrip and you are offered lodge accommodation at Lukla. In the evening, a farewell dinner may be followed by a few celebratory drinks and dancing with Sherpa companions.

Day 29. Lukla to Kathmandu (1,300m)

We catch an early morning flight to Kathmandu after our long mountain journey. After reaching Kathmandu, we can take a rest or do some souvenir shopping. If we want to explore any other areas of Kathmandu, we may do that today. Our guides can help you with both souvenirs shopping or sightseeing.

Day 30. Free Day in Kathmandu (1,300m)

This is the free day and you can use it for your shopping. In the evening we will drive you for farewell dinner with cultural dance.

Day 31. International Departure (1,300m)

All too soon it’s time to bid Nepal farewell and one realizes that we can never be intimate, only acquainted with this amazing adventure Himalaya.

What's Included

    • Airport pick up & drop off transportation
    • Twin sharing accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast as per itinerary
    • Kathmandu Lukla Kathmandu flight fare for members & Staffs
    • Cargo
    • All trekking and Ama Dablam climbing permit fees
    • Laison officer and all his expenses
    • Trekking and teahouse arrangements to/from Ama Dablam Base Camp
    • Full board basis at Base Camp
    • Food and fuel above Ama Dablam Base Camp
    • All group camping equipment, kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, table, chair and kitchen utensils etc
    • Single tent for use at the Base Camp (with foam mattress provided)
    • Base Camp Sherpa(s) and Cook crew
    • Insurance for all Nepalese staffs
    • Use of group gear and supplies: rope, ice screws, rock, and snow anchor protection etc
    • satellite telephone
    • Necessary Porter or Yaks support from Lukla to and from Base Camp
    • Emergency equipment like medical oxygen, Gamow bag, base camp medical kit, high-altitude medical kits etc
    • High-altitude camp equipment and supplies, and Sherpa support on summit day
    • Climbing Sherpa will establish camps, carry group equipment (including sleeping bags and pads), establish the route, etc
    • Farewell dinner in Kathmandu
    • All government taxes and agency service charge

What's Not Included

    • International Airfare
    • Nepal Visa fee (US$ 50 per person for 30 days)
    • Lunch & Dinner in Kathmandu
    • Personal climbing clothes and equipment
    • Custom Duty
    • Excess personal climber baggage transport
    • All expenses of personal nature like bar bills, laundry, telephone etc.
    • Insurance for travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation & lost baggage.
    • Personal Climbing Sherpa (must be arranged before the expedition)
    • Climbing Bonus & summit bonus for climbing Sherpa (if you used Sherpa), Tips for Base Camp Staff
    • Personal travel / medical / cancellation/rescue insurance
    • Any rescue costs or costs of early departure from the expedition
    • Helicopter or charter flight

Equipment Checklist

Personal Climbing Gear: Mountaineering boots ,Rope , Climbing Harness. ,Crampons, Ice axe, Ascender and descended , ,Head Lamp, Carabineers ,Figure 8, Altimeter ,Climbing helmetPersonal Climbing Gear: Mountaineering boots ,Rope , Climbing Harness. ,Crampons, Ice axe, Ascender and descended , ,Head Lamp, Carabineers ,Figure 8, Altimeter ,Climbing helmet

Footwear : Well broken-in walking shoes - these must be suitable for snow, thick socks, light socks, camp shoes.

Clothing : Down or fiber filled waterproof jacket and trousers, sweater or fleece jacket, underwear, warm and cotton trousers or jeans, shirts and T-shirts, shorts, long underwear, wool hat, sun hat, gloves, bathing suit, track suit.

Other equipment: Sleeping bag (5 seasons), lock, day pack, water bottle, sun cream, sunglasses, flashlight with spare bulbs and batteries, lip salve, gaiters.

Other items: Insect repellent, toilet articles, diary, toilet roll, laundry soap, wet ones, pocket knife, towel, sewing kit, plasters, binoculars, camera, film, cards and personal medical kit.

Trip facts

  • Region
  • Activity
  • Duration
    31 Days
  • Max. Altitude
  • Group Size
  • Transportation

Your Host

Mrs Pamfa Dhamala

 My company has been helping people plan and experience the Himalayan treks and tours of their dreams for over 25 years. Please Let me assist you with your inquiry.

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Since its establishment in 1991 AD, Langtang Ri Trekking and Expedition has stood as a beacon of adventure and exploration in the realm of tourism. With three decades of unparalleled experience, the company has been at the forefront of creating unforgettable journeys for clients hailing from every corner of the globe. Rooted in Nepal's breathtaking landscapes, Langtang Ri has continuously raised the bar for trekking, tours, expeditions, and extreme sports, offering a comprehensive range of services that cater to the intrepid spirit of travelers.
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