Embark on an extraordinary journey to conquer the towering heights of Baruntse Peak, a challenging yet accessible 7000M giant nestled between Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. This expedition promises not only breathtaking views but also invaluable experience and skills applicable to higher peaks.
Prerequisites and Requirements:
Prior alpine/mountain climbing experience is mandatory for Baruntse Peak Climbing. Applicants are carefully vetted to ensure readiness for the challenges ahead. Prerequisite requirements include successful climbs of Lobuche East, Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak, Aconcagua, or similar semi-technical 6000M peaks or higher.
Challenges and Rating:
With a difficulty rating of AD+, Baruntse Peak presents technical climbs, glacier routes, and steep sections of ice at 50 degrees. A prominent ice cliff around 7000 meters adds to the challenge. Despite its difficulty, conquering Baruntse provides a stepping stone for future climbs in the 7500-8000 meter range.
Expedition Itinerary:
The expedition encompasses two vital camps: Camp 1 at 6,100m after West Col and Camp 2 on the South-East Ridge at 6,420m. Treks into the heartland of the Khumbu region add scenic beauty to the adventure.
Historical Significance:
Baruntse's South Ridge witnessed its first conquest on 30 May 1954, achieved by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow of a New Zealand expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary.
Guide/Client Ratio:
Maintaining a 1:1 guide-client ratio for the Baruntse climb ensures personalized attention and safety. Adjustments may occur during specific situations like fixing summit ropes, where a temporary shift to a 1:2 ratio could be implemented during rotations or the summit push.
Embark on the Baruntse Peak Climbing Adventure, where each step is a testament to your resilience, skill, and the unyielding spirit of exploration.
Itinerary
Upon your arrival at Kathmandu Airport, our team will warmly welcome you and assist with the transfer to your hotel located at an elevation of 1350 meters. This initial day is designed for you to acclimate to the local surroundings and rest before the exciting journey ahead.
This day is dedicated to necessary preparations for the expedition. We will assist you in obtaining the required permits and provide a comprehensive briefing about the upcoming adventure. Later in the day, we'll embark on a scenic drive to Ramechhap, where you'll spend the night in a comfortable hotel, gearing up for the journey to Lukla.
The adventure officially begins as we take a thrilling flight to Lukla, known for its unique and challenging airstrip. From Lukla, a scenic trek commences towards Chhutang, situated at an altitude of 3020 meters. The trek provides stunning views and a taste of the trekking experience in the Himalayan region.
Embarking on the trek, we ascend through the mesmerizing landscapes, crossing the Zatrawa La Pass at 4610 meters. The journey leads us to Thuli Kharka at 3900 meters, where we'll rest in a lodge. This day offers a blend of challenging terrain and panoramic views.
The trek continues as we traverse from Thuli Kharka to Kothe, reaching an elevation of 4095 meters. The journey encompasses diverse landscapes, providing a mix of challenges and scenic beauty. The day's trek concludes with a comfortable stay in a lodge, preparing you for the adventures that lie ahead.
As the journey progresses, today's trek takes you from Kothe to Thangnak. The trail leads through varied terrain, including lush landscapes and alpine surroundings, ultimately reaching an elevation of 4,350 meters. The day's adventure concludes with a well-deserved rest in a lodge, allowing you to recharge for the upcoming challenges.
Recognizing the importance of acclimatization in high-altitude environments, this day is dedicated to rest and acclimatization at Thangnak. Take the opportunity to explore the surroundings or simply relax at the lodge, allowing your body to adjust to the increasing altitude. This strategic pause contributes to a safer and more successful ascent.
The journey continues as you trek from Thangnak to Khare, reaching an elevation of 5,045 meters. The trail unfolds with captivating views and varying landscapes, providing a unique Himalayan experience. The day concludes with a comfortable stay in a lodge, preparing you for the higher altitudes that lie ahead.
Another crucial acclimatization day awaits at Khare. Utilize this time to explore the vicinity or venture towards Mera High Camp at 5600 meters for a gradual ascent. This exploration not only aids in acclimatization but also offers spectacular views of the surrounding peaks. Return to the lodge in Khare for a well-deserved rest.
Embark on a thrilling trek via Mera La at 5320 meters, a high mountain pass with breathtaking panoramas. The trail descends to Kongmadin, situated at 4800 meters, where you'll spend the night camping. This change in accommodation provides a different experience and prepares you for the subsequent stages of the expedition.
The adventure unfolds as you trek to Seto Pokhari Camp at an elevation of 5000 meters. The trail offers stunning views, and the campsite by the pristine Seto Pokhari (White Lake) provides a serene setting for camping. Embrace the tranquility of the high-altitude surroundings as you prepare for the upcoming challenges.
Today's trek takes you to the Baruntse Base Camp at an elevation of 5400 meters. The journey involves navigating through rugged terrain, and upon reaching the base camp, preparations for the ascent will begin. The campsite, surrounded by towering peaks, becomes your home as you gear up for the upcoming phases of the expedition.
With the majestic Baruntse towering above, this day is dedicated to essential training at the Base Camp. Sharpen your mountaineering skills, review safety protocols, and engage in team-building exercises. The training ensures that every team member is well-prepared and equipped for the challenges that lie ahead.
Continuing the focus on preparedness, another day of training at the Base Camp allows for a thorough review of technical skills, equipment usage, and emergency procedures. The training sessions aim to enhance confidence and proficiency, fostering a cohesive and capable expedition team.
Embark on a mesmerizing two-hour glacier walk, exploring the icy landscapes surrounding the Base Camp. This excursion not only serves as a physical activity but also provides a firsthand experience of the glacial terrain, crucial for acclimatization. Return to the Base Camp, reenergized and with a deeper connection to the high-altitude environment.
The journey ascends as you make your way from the Base Camp to Camp 1, situated at an altitude of 6100 meters. The trek, while challenging, offers unparalleled views and serves as a key step in acclimatization. Camp 1 becomes a vital staging point for the subsequent stages of the climb.
A day of ascent and touch at Camp 2 awaits. Pushing further, you reach an elevation of 6400 meters, providing a taste of higher altitudes. After touching Camp 2, the descent back to the Base Camp follows. This round-trip journey not only contributes to acclimatization but also tests your endurance at increasing altitudes.
Another day of rest at the Base Camp allows for continued acclimatization. Utilize this time for personal reflection, mental preparation, and perhaps some light activities around the camp. This measured approach to acclimatization enhances your chances of success during the summit push.
The second consecutive rest day at the Base Camp is strategically placed to ensure optimal acclimatization. Embrace the serene surroundings, engage in team bonding, and mentally prepare for the upcoming challenges. This dual rest day reinforces your body's adaptation to the altitude, setting the stage for the summit bid.
Days 21-28: Weather Check and Summit Planning; Adjusting for Conditions
During this crucial phase, the expedition team closely monitors the weather conditions, assessing the feasibility of a successful summit push. Summit planning takes center stage, considering factors such as wind speed, precipitation, and overall climatic conditions.
Day 21-22: Weather Evaluation and Summit Strategy Formulation
The team diligently evaluates the weather patterns and collaboratively formulates a summit strategy. If the conditions are deemed unfavorable, a decision is made to wait for a suitable weather window. During this time, the team remains at the Base Camp, ensuring physical and mental preparedness.
Day 23-26: Patience and Weather Window Anticipation
Patience becomes a virtue as the team awaits an opportune weather window for the summit push. Activities during this period include light training, mental conditioning, and team bonding. Continuous weather monitoring guides the decision-making process, prioritizing safety and success.
Day 27: Summit Push Decision Day
Based on the latest weather updates and forecasts, a decision is made regarding the feasibility of the summit push. If conditions are favorable, the team initiates the ascent towards the summit. However, if the weather remains challenging, the team may opt to continue waiting for a better window.
Day 28: Summit Attempt or Descent to Base Camp; Seto Pokhari (5350m/10hrs)
If the weather conditions permit, the team embarks on the summit push. The climb to the summit is a challenging yet rewarding endeavor. However, if the weather remains unfavorable, a strategic decision is made to descend to the Base Camp. As an alternative, the team may head to Seto Pokhari, situated at 5350 meters, for a change of scenery and continued acclimatization.
After the culmination of the summit attempt or the extended stay at Seto Pokhari, the team dedicates this day to cleaning and dismantling the Base Camp. Following the cleanup, embark on a trek to Kongmadin at an elevation of 4800 meters. The change in scenery offers a refreshing perspective, and the day concludes with camping under the Himalayan night sky.
The journey continues as you trek from Kongmadin to Khare. The trail winds through diverse landscapes, providing an opportunity to reflect on the expedition's achievements. Upon reaching Khare at 5,045 meters, settle into the lodge for a comfortable night's rest.
Navigate through the familiar trails, trekking from Khare to Kothe via Thangnak. The descent offers a chance to revisit the picturesque landscapes and villages encountered during the initial stages of the expedition. Spend the night in a lodge at Kothe.
Continue the trek, making your way from Kothe to Thuli Kharka. The trail presents a blend of descents and ascents, allowing for a gradual adjustment to lower altitudes. Arrive at Thuli Kharka and rest in the lodge, relishing the memories of the journey.
The final leg of the trek takes you from Thuli Kharka to Lukla. This last day of trekking offers a mix of terrains, concluding with the familiar sights of Lukla. Celebrate the completion of the expedition and spend the night in a lodge.
Embark on a scenic flight from Lukla to Manthali, followed by a drive to Kathmandu. The team returns to the bustling city, marking the end of the mountainous adventure. Check into the hotel and unwind after the trek.
Take a well-deserved rest day in Kathmandu. Participate in a comprehensive debriefing session to discuss the expedition, share experiences, and celebrate the achievements. Reflect on the challenges overcome and the bonds forged during the journey.
Bid farewell to the Himalayan adventure as you transfer to the airport for your final departure. Depart with cherished memories and a sense of accomplishment from the Baruntse expedition.
What's Included
What's Not Included
Mountain Climbing Gear Checklist
Head Protection:
- Helmet (Black Diamond, Petzl)
- Alpine Ice Axe (65-70cm)
- Mountaineering harness with adjustable leg loops
- Carabiners: 3 locking and 6 regular
- Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
- Mountaineering boots suitable for above 8000m (La Sportiva or equivalent)
- Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection
- Thermal mountaineering socks or equivalent: 6 pairs
- Liner socks or equivalent: 6 pairs
Body Layers:
- Expedition suits (North Face Himalayan suit or equivalent)
- 4 merino base layers: top/bottom set
- 5 mid-layer top: breathable Underwear
- Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair
- Hooded Soft Shell jacket (to be worn over other layers)
- Soft Shell Guide Pants: Gore Tex and breathable
- Hooded Hard Shell: Gore Tex and breathable
- Hard Shell Pants: Gore Tex and breathable (big enough to wear over guide trousers)
- Insulated Down Jacket with hood: North Face Himalayan parka or equivalent
- Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
- Long johns equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs
Headgear and Handwear:
- Wool hat (ski hat)
- Sunhat: To shade your face/neck from the sun on a hot day
- Buff: To protect your neck/face from the sun
- Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap-around
- Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
- Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs
- Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold/wind
- Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold/strong wind
- Expedition Mitts for bad weather
Personal Gear:
- Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
- Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
- Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic
- Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
- High-Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
- Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
- Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
- Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking
- Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
- Spoon: Plastic spoon
- Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night.
- Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above
- Lip balm with sunblock
- Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1-liter capacity
- Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
- Thermos: 1 liter
- Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
- Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper, hand sanitizer, and a small towel
- Hand warmers & toe warmers
- Pen Knife or multi-tool (optional)
- Camera: Bring extra batteries and memory cards
- Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)
Travel Clothes:
- Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment
- Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, iPad, smartphone, etc
- Snack food: Bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food (bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc.)
- Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc
- Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone
Note: The gear list may vary based on personal preferences, specific requirements, and the expedition's unique conditions. Ensure all gear is of high quality and meets safety standards.
Important Note
Itinerary and Dates: Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but as this is adventure travel in a remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it. Weather conditions and the health of trekkers can all contribute to changes. Your guide, and their Sherpa assistants, will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if necessary. Our aim is to return you safely to Kathmandu in time for your departure flight booking.
Experience Required: This Trek is suitable for keen walkers who are able to walk for 6 – 7 hours each day, with a light rucksack. Some of the days are quite long, and walking feels more strenuous at altitude. Generally, the trail is a good quality, but occasionally it will be uneven and rocky.
Food & Accommodation: You will be accommodated in a teahouse each night, unless the itinerary stipulates tent camping is necessary on some nights. Teahouses are simple, locally-run guesthouses with twin-share or single rooms. Toilets and showers are of varying standards. Typical food available for lunch and dinner is Nepali rice & lentils, pasta, potato dishes, soups or pizzas. Delicious pancakes, porridge, toast and eggs are the main breakfast fare, while tea, coffee and hot chocolate are always available. You will probably be pleasantly surprised by the variety of food at the lodges.
What about our luggage: One porter will be shared between two trekking clients. Porters will carry a maximum of 12kgs per client. If you wish to, you may keep excess clothing and items in a storage room at your Kathmandu hotel.
What will the temperature be like: The weather obviously varies considerably by season and may also change drastically within a single day, particularly at high altitude. If your itinerary takes you above 3,000m need to be prepared for conditions that may range from -10 to 25 degrees on any day. Some useful weather data is available here: https://bit.ly/3vi7rHX You will also need good protections from sun and wind exposure. Contact us for a suggested trek packing list to suit your itinerary.
How much money should we bring: You will need to carry Nepali Rupee to pay for things not covered by your itinerary package. This may include bottled water; evening hot showers; additional food treats; additional hot drinks; equipment replacement or repairs; battery charging and gifts and tips. Shopping can also be done on your last day in Thamel. Talk with us in our office before departing on your trek and we can provide more advice and currency exchange.
What about Acute Mountaineering Sickness (AMS): AMS is essentially impossible to predict. Some people are affected, and other not. Only a very small percentage of people suffer serious effects. Effects may become apparent at any altitude, not just at the extremes of your itinerary.
Signs of AMS includes:
- Dizziness
- Nausea
- Headache
- Loss of Appetite
- Fatigue or weakness
- Shortness of breath
- Drowsiness
- Flatulence
- Peripheral Edema (Swelling of extremities)
- Fluctuation in body temperature
Prevention of AMS:
- Adequate rest prior to the trek.
- Adequate hydration maintained throughout the trek.
- Adequate salt and sugar in your bloodstream. So, eat plenty and don’t skip meals.
- Adequate warmth. Use clothing layers to maintain warmth without sweating excessively. Controlled and regular breathing. Breathe deeply from the diaphragm to use all your lung capacity. Try and walk to a pace that maintains controlled and steady breathing. Breathe through your nose to protect you throat from drying. Consider wearing a muff over your mouth and nose at high altitudes.
- Managed exertion. Trekking is not a race to the next pass or teahouse. Go at a constant, manageable pace, do not chase after the person in front. Keep a slow steady pace rather than pushing too hard and needing to stop frequently. Take time to enjoy the scenery.
Trip facts
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Grade
Moderate
Your Host
Mrs Pamfa Dhamala
My company has been helping people plan and experience the Himalayan treks and tours of their dreams for over 25 years. Please Let me assist you with your inquiry.
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