Overview
Ama Dablam Expedition known as the ‘Matterhorn of the Himalaya’, the overwhelming ice-coated granite pyramid of Ama Dablam dominates the sky above the trekker’s trail to the Everest Base Camp. The mountain derives its name from the glacier lying on its Southwest face. The glacier looks like a jewel box hanging on the neck of the mountain, hence the name Ama Dablam, literally meaning ‘The Mother’s Jewel Box’. Interestingly, when a team led by Edmund Hillary scaled the mountain for the first time, Nepal’s King nearly imprisoned Hillary for climbing the sacred Ama Dablam without permission.
The standard ascent to Ama Dablam is made via the South-Western Ridge, the same route followed by Ward (UK), Bishop (USA) and Gill (NZ) in the first ascent of the mountain in 1961. The route offers varied and sustained climb with reasonable level of difficulty. Three high camps are set up at strategic points. The climb is moderate up to Camp 1, then it gets challenging up along the narrow granite ridge. Negotiating pitches of steep ice and snow slopes, the route gets more technical from Camp 2. From Camp 3, skirt around the hanging glacier or the Dablam, cross snow arete (A sharp ridge) and bergschrund(A gap or crevasse at the edge) between ice cliffs, and scale the summit.
Trip Highlights
- Breathtaking Landscapes: Stunning natural views, like mountains, beaches, forests, or urban skylines.
- Cultural Immersion: Unique local experiences—festivals, traditions, or cultural sites.
- Delicious Cuisine: Memorable meals, street food, or fine dining that defined the trip.
- Adventurous Activities: Exciting excursions—hiking, water sports, or exploring hidden gems.
- Unforgettable Moments: Special encounters with people, wildlife, or a personal achievement.
Itinerary
Langtang Ri Trekking & Expedition representative will greet you in an airport & transfer you to your Hotel, after refreshment you will be picked from hotel lobby to office where you will be formally introduced to your Guide and the activities to be enjoyed over the next few days. We will also ask for your passport photographs and any other details required for your trek permits, at this stage.
Today is the brefing day at Nepal tourism board.
After breakfast, we will be taken to the domestic terminal of TIA for an early morning flight to Lukla. After flying above the breathtaking green and white mountains, we reach Tenzing-Hillary Airport at Lukla. This is one of the most beautiful air routes in the world culminating in a landing on a hillside surrounded by high mountains. Upon our arrival at Lukla, we meet our crew members and after some packing and preparation, we start our trek through the prosperous village of Lukla until we reach Phakding. To assist in acclimatization, we only have a short hike today. However, if interested in additional activities, we can take a side trip to a nearby monastery.
After breakfast we walk through beautiful pine forests and then along Dudh Koshi River ending our nature-filled journey at Namche Bazaar. After walking for almost over an hour, we come across the glistening Mt. Thamserku (6,608m) on our right and also experience the serenity of pine, fir and juniper forests throughout our journey. If the weather is clear, we may even catch a glimpse of Mt. Everest peering over the Lhotse-Nuptse ridge. We continue walking until we reach the entrance to Sagarmatha National Park, Namche Bazaar, the gateway to Mt. Everest and main trading centre of this region. This day we cross five suspension bridges, the last one also known as the Hillary Bridge being the highest. It is an uphill walk from Hillary Bridge to Namche Bazaar.
This is the day set aside for acclimatization. Health experts recommend that we stay active and move around even during the rest day instead of being idle. There are a few options set aside for this day. We can either stroll around Namche’s quaint villages or come in contact with the Sherpa people and their rich culture, or we can hike up to the Everest View Hotel and enjoy an up-close view of the mighty Everest. While in the Namche village or upon returning from the hike to the Everest View Hotel, trekkers may also visit the local museum containing exhibits displaying the area’s native flora and fauna as well as the history of the Mount Everest region. For trekkers who want to hike for a little longer, a hike to Khumjung village (5-6 hours) may also be an option. While in the village we can visit the Edmund Hillary School and Khumjung Monastery (a monastery famous for housing the head of the Yeti!).
We trek further along the Everest route and pass through beautiful villages and cross the Dudh Koshi River while also enjoying magnificent views of the Himalayan peaks along the way like Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. After ascending on a steep trail we reach the Tengboche Monastery and spend some time there. Later we descend to Debuche to spend the night.
We hike to another village called Pangboche on our way to Pheriche. Pangboche is a scenic village surrounded by Everest to its north, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, and Kangtaiga to the east, the Kongde range to the south and the ImjaTse river flowing through the wide fertile valley.From here, we continue further up towards Pheriche, another beautiful village for an overnight stay.
We have optimum number of acclimatization days to minimize the chances of anyone being affected by AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). Today we climb a terrain above the Pheriche village as it is well suited to give us a hiking experience in a cold condition. We walk up a slope overlooking the high Himalayan valleys.
We begin by trekking back to Pangboche and crossing the Dudh Koshi River. Next, we ascend on a trail which will take us to the Ama Dablam Base Camp. The Base Camp is a large open grassy area where we will be spending the rest of the day for acclimatization.
Acclitimatzation in Ama Dablam base Camp
Base Camp to Camp 1 (4,570m to 5,700m):
The Ama Dablam Base Camp is a broad, grassy plain at an altitude of 4,570m/14988ft. Camp 1 lies at 5,700m/18696ft. So, it’s about 1000m long walk from the Base Camp to Camp 1. Cimb up along a morainal gravel ridge slope. Then cross a boulder field on the South-West ridge. There is a stream with fresh water so the place is also sometimes used as advanced base camp. It takes about 5-6 hours to get to Camp 1 which is perched on a steep rocky area. Generally, one night is spent at camp 1 for acclimatization and then returning to the Base Camp for the final preparation to scale the summit.
Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5950m):
The ascent from Camp 1 to camp 2 is the most technical part of the expedition. Cross the exciting granites slabs and snowy patches. The most challenging part is the rock tower, also called Yellow Tower, just before Camp 2. The climb between Camp 1 and the Yellow Tower is mostly class 3-4. Follow existing fixed lines, the Sherpas fix new ropes wherever necessary. Camp 2 is a narrow exposed area atop a rock pillar therefore it’s better to get informed if there is already any group staying at Camp 2. Takes about 4-5 hrs.
Camp 2 to Camp 3 (6,400m):
Camp 2 to Camp 3 involves climbing on the steep ridge over the 70-degree couloir. The intimidating rock wall of the Grey Tower tests your stamina. Put on your crampons in order to climb a steep pitch of rock and ice. Better make use of your jumar as backup for safety. Cross the snow and ice with patches of bare rock at places leading a knife-edge, crested with snow, and overhung on both sides – the Mushroom Ridge. The Mushroom ridge links the mixed terrain on the South-West ridge below to the snowy field above of the summit. It takes about 3-4 hours from Camp 2 to Camp 3.
Camp 3 to Summit (6856m):
Camp 3 lies on a relatively flat snow field just above the big snow Mushroom Ridge. The summit climb is very cold and exposed. The route is mostly straight up but comparatively less technical than before. The climb is about a 3-4 hours climb up then about 3 hours down. The Sherpas set up fixed ropes wherever necessary. Continue up the steep snow slopes. Haul yourself up the near vertical ice-pitch. On a clear dry day, the summit looks awesome. Marvel at the breathtaking views of the Everest, Lhotse and Makalu unfolding before your eyes. Stay at camp 3 for the night and return to base camp the following day.
Our group treks back to Tengboche.
Mostly down hill today it will take you 4 to 5 hours, there is a steep climb for about an hour before you encounter the scenic walk back into Namche. From Khumjung you can pass through Khunde where you may enjoy a visit to the little monastery if you haven’t already.
Trek to Lukla (2886m.) and it takes about four ho rs. You re-trace your steps along the Dudh Koshi, crossing the western bank at Benkar. It is a beautiful and easy walk through blue pine and rhododendron forest, back-dropped with views of Kusum Kangaru. An early lunch will be taken at Phakding and in the afternoon you ascend out of the river valley back to the airstrip and you are offered lodge accommodation at Lukla. In the evening, a farewell dinner may be followed by a few celebratory drinks and dancing with Sherpa companions.
We catch an early morning flight to Kathmandu after our long mountain journey. After reaching Kathmandu, we can take a rest or do some souvenir shopping. If we want to explore any other areas of Kathmandu, we may do that today. Our guides can help you with both souvenirs shopping or sightseeing.
This is the free day and you can use it for your shopping. In the evening we will drive you for farewell dinner with cultural dance.
All too soon it’s time to bid Nepal farewell and one realizes that we can never be intimate, only acquainted with this amazing adventure Himalaya.
Includes/Excludes
Cost Includes
- Airport pick up & drop off transportation
- Twin sharing accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast as per itinerary
- Kathmandu Lukla Kathmandu flight fare for members & Staffs
- Cargo
- All trekking and Ama Dablam climbing permit fees
- Laison officer and all his expenses
- Trekking and teahouse arrangements to/from Ama Dablam Base Camp
- Full board basis at Base Camp
- Food and fuel above Ama Dablam Base Camp
- All group camping equipment, kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, table, chair and kitchen utensils etc
- Single tent for use at the Base Camp (with foam mattress provided)
- Base Camp Sherpa(s) and Cook crew
- Insurance for all Nepalese staffs
- Use of group gear and supplies: rope, ice screws, rock, and snow anchor protection etc
- satellite telephone
- Necessary Porter or Yaks support from Lukla to and from Base Camp
- Emergency equipment like medical oxygen, Gamow bag, base camp medical kit, high-altitude medical kits etc
- High-altitude camp equipment and supplies, and Sherpa support on summit day
- Climbing Sherpa will establish camps, carry group equipment (including sleeping bags and pads), establish the route, etc
- Farewell dinner in Kathmandu
- All government taxes and agency service charge
Cost Excludes
- International Airfare
- Nepal Visa fee (US$ 50 per person for 30 days)
- Lunch & Dinner in Kathmandu
- Personal climbing clothes and equipment
- Custom Duty
- Excess personal climber baggage transport
- All expenses of personal nature like bar bills, laundry, telephone etc.
- Insurance for travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation & lost baggage.
- Personal Climbing Sherpa (must be arranged before the expedition)
- Climbing Bonus & summit bonus for climbing Sherpa (if you used Sherpa), Tips for Base Camp Staff
- Personal travel / medical / cancellation/rescue insurance
- Any rescue costs or costs of early departure from the expedition
- Helicopter or charter flight
Equipment Checklist
Embarking on the Ama Dablam Expedition requires meticulous preparation, especially when it comes to your gear and equipment. The challenging terrain, high-altitude conditions, and varying weather demand durable and high-quality equipment. Below is a comprehensive checklist, categorized into 12 key sections, ensuring you are fully equipped for this extraordinary journey.
1. Clothing for the Trekking Phase
- Base Layers: Two sets of lightweight, moisture-wicking thermal tops and bottoms.
- Insulating Layers: Fleece or synthetic jackets and pants for added warmth.
- Trekking Pants: Comfortable and quick-drying pants.
- Shirts: Long-sleeve and short-sleeve shirts made of breathable, quick-dry materials.
- Jacket: Lightweight windproof and water-resistant jacket for protection during the trek.
- Rain Gear: A durable waterproof jacket and pants to protect against sudden rain showers.
2. Clothing for the Climbing Phase
- Down Jacket: A heavy-duty, expedition-grade down jacket for extreme cold.
- Climbing Pants: Insulated and weather-resistant climbing pants.
- Base Layers: Additional thermal sets for layering at higher altitudes.
- Gloves: Inner liner gloves, insulated gloves, and heavy-duty mountaineering mittens.
- Socks: Several pairs of synthetic or wool trekking socks and insulated mountaineering socks.
- Balaclava and Neck Gaiter: For protecting your face and neck from cold winds.
- Gaiters: High-quality gaiters to keep snow and debris out of your boots.
3. Footwear
- Trekking Boots: Waterproof and well-broken-in boots with good ankle support.
- Climbing Boots: Insulated double boots designed for high-altitude mountaineering.
- Camp Shoes: Lightweight and comfortable shoes or sandals for use in the camp.
- Sock Liners: Thin, moisture-wicking liners to wear under thicker socks.
- Crampons: Compatible with your climbing boots and suitable for icy conditions.
4. Headgear
- Sun Hat: Wide-brimmed or baseball cap for sun protection during the trek.
- Warm Hat: Insulated beanie or hat to retain warmth during cold conditions.
- Glacier Glasses: UV-protected glasses with side shields to protect your eyes from snow glare.
- Headlamp: A durable headlamp with extra batteries for use during nighttime or early morning climbs.
5. Sleeping Gear
- Sleeping Bag: Expedition-grade sleeping bag rated for temperatures as low as -20°C (-4°F).
- Sleeping Pad: Insulated and lightweight pad for added comfort and warmth.
- Pillow: Inflatable or compressible travel pillow for a better night’s sleep.
6. Backpacks and Bags
- Daypack: A 30-40L pack for carrying essentials like water, snacks, and extra layers during the day.
- Expedition Backpack: A 60-70L pack for transporting heavier loads.
- Duffel Bag: Large, durable duffel for packing gear to be carried by porters.
- Dry Bags: Various sizes for organizing and waterproofing gear.
- Rain Cover: For your daypack and backpack to protect against rain.
7. Climbing Equipment
- Ice Axe: Lightweight and technical ice axe suitable for steep ascents.
- Harness: Adjustable and comfortable climbing harness.
- Carabiners: At least four locking carabiners and a few non-locking ones.
- Belay Device: ATC or similar device for belaying and rappelling.
- Ascender: Mechanical ascender for climbing fixed ropes.
- Helmet: Lightweight, durable climbing helmet.
- Prusik Loops: For safety backups on fixed ropes.
8. Technical Gear
- Ropes: Personal short rope or accessory cord for additional safety.
- Snow Anchor: Necessary for securing during icy sections.
- Jumar: Ascending device compatible with fixed ropes.
- Crampon Straps: Spare straps for securing crampons.
- Ice Screws: Essential for glacier climbing sections.
9. Hydration and Nutrition
- Water Bottles: Two to three insulated bottles to prevent freezing at high altitudes.
- Hydration Bladder: Optional for easier access to water during trekking.
- Water Purification: Tablets, filters, or UV pens for treating water from natural sources.
- Snacks: High-energy snacks like protein bars, trail mix, and chocolates.
- Electrolyte Tablets: To replenish salts and minerals lost during strenuous activity.
10. Personal Items
- Trekking Poles: Adjustable poles with comfortable grips for support on uneven terrain.
- Toiletries: Biodegradable soap, toothpaste, toothbrush, and small towels.
- Sunscreen: High SPF sunscreen and lip balm with UV protection.
- Wet Wipes: For quick cleaning during the trek and climb.
- First Aid Kit: Personal kit with medications, bandages, and blister treatment.
- Personal Identification: Passport, permits, and extra passport-sized photos.
11. Electronics and Accessories
- Camera: Lightweight camera or smartphone for capturing memories.
- Power Bank: High-capacity power bank for charging electronics.
- Solar Charger: Optional for long expeditions without access to power.
- Spare Batteries: For all electronic devices.
- Notebook and Pen: For journaling or taking notes during the expedition.
- Watch: Altimeter or GPS-enabled watch for tracking progress.
12. Optional but Recommended Gear
- Books or E-Reader: For entertainment during downtime.
- Earplugs: Useful in shared accommodations or noisy environments.
- Stuff Sacks: Compression sacks to save space in your bags.
- Hand Warmers: Disposable or rechargeable warmers for hands and feet.
- Clothing Repair Kit: Small kit with needle, thread, and patches for quick fixes.
Final Preparations and Tips
Ensure all your gear is tested and familiar to you before the expedition. Break in new boots and check that all climbing equipment is in excellent condition. Label your items for easy identification, especially in shared spaces. A detailed packing list and thorough preparation are key to enjoying the Ama Dablam Expedition safely and successfully. With the right equipment, you’ll be well-prepared to tackle the challenges and savor the rewards of this incredible adventure.
Fixed Departure
Our fixed departures are designed to provide a seamless trekking and climbing experience, aligning with the best seasons for optimal weather and breathtaking views. Upcoming expeditions are scheduled for March 1 to March 31, 2024, April 5 to May 5, 2024, September 10 to October 10, 2024, and October 15 to November 15, 2024.
Group Size and Availability
Each group accommodates 2 to 12 participants, ensuring personalized attention and camaraderie among team members. Availability is limited, with spots filling quickly for each departure. Early reservations are strongly encouraged to secure your place on this extraordinary journey.
Tailored Experiences
For those seeking a more exclusive adventure, private departures can be arranged upon request. These allow for customized itineraries and flexibility to suit individual or group preferences, making it an ideal option for private groups or families.
Booking and Preparation
To make the most of your trek, we recommend early booking, allowing sufficient time for preparation and training. The fixed departure schedule ensures consistency and a well-planned itinerary, allowing you to focus entirely on the adventure and immerse yourself in the majestic Himalayan experience.
Map
Essential information
1. Geographical Overview
The Ama Dablam Expedition takes you to the heart of the Khumbu region, where Ama Dablam stands as a jewel of the Himalayas. Rising to 6,812 meters, its name translates to “Mother’s Necklace,” symbolizing the hanging glacier that resembles a traditional pendant. The expedition offers breathtaking views of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu, showcasing the beauty of Nepal’s high peaks.
2. Difficulty Level and Fitness Requirements
This expedition is classified as highly challenging, requiring climbers to possess advanced mountaineering skills. Participants should be proficient in using technical climbing gear such as crampons, ice axes, and ascenders. A high level of physical fitness and prior experience in high-altitude climbing are essential. Training programs focusing on endurance, strength, and technical skills are highly recommended.
3. Best Seasons for the Expedition
The ideal times for attempting Ama Dablam are during the pre-monsoon spring (April to May) and post-monsoon autumn (September to November). These seasons offer stable weather conditions, clear skies, and manageable temperatures. Climbers should, however, be prepared for sudden weather changes typical of the Himalayan region.
4. Permits and Regulations
To embark on this expedition, climbers need several permits, including the Ama Dablam climbing permit, Sagarmatha National Park entry permit, and a TIMS (Trekkers’ Information Management System) card. These permits are usually arranged by trekking agencies, and climbers must provide passport photographs and personal details during the application process.
5. Acclimatization and AMS Awareness
Acclimatization is a critical component of the expedition. The itinerary includes several acclimatization days to help climbers adapt to the thinning air and minimize the risk of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Symptoms of AMS include headaches, nausea, and fatigue. Immediate descent is necessary if symptoms worsen, and climbers should always carry prescribed medications like Diamox.
6. Guiding and Support Team
The expedition is supported by a team of experienced Sherpa guides, cooks, and porters. Sherpas provide invaluable assistance, from route setting to carrying supplies, ensuring a safe and enjoyable climb. Many guiding agencies also include a climbing leader who holds international certifications in mountaineering and first aid.
7. Accommodation and Meals
Accommodation during the trek consists of teahouses, offering basic but comfortable facilities. As climbers ascend higher, camping becomes the primary option. Meals include a mix of local Nepalese dishes and international cuisine, with a focus on energy-dense foods to meet the demands of high-altitude trekking and climbing.
8. Equipment and Gear Preparation
Proper gear is indispensable for the success of the expedition. Climbers must ensure their equipment, from insulated boots to technical climbing gear, is of high quality and tested beforehand. Porters help transport heavy loads, but personal backpacks should carry essentials such as water, snacks, and additional clothing layers.
9. Environmental and Ethical Considerations
Ama Dablam is part of a fragile ecosystem, and climbers must adhere to Leave No Trace principles. This includes minimizing waste, using eco-friendly products, and respecting local customs and wildlife. Trekking agencies often emphasize sustainable practices, such as waste management and support for local communities.
10. Preparation and Mindset
Successful completion of the Ama Dablam Expedition depends on thorough preparation and the right mindset. Climbers should be mentally prepared for long days, unpredictable weather, and physical exertion. Building resilience and maintaining a positive attitude are as crucial as physical training. The journey is not just a test of skill and endurance but a deeply rewarding experience of Nepal’s majestic Himalayas.
FAQs
This expedition is categorized as strenuous and requires prior trekking or climbing experience, excellent physical fitness, and mental endurance.
Yes, basic mountaineering skills and experience climbing above 4,000m are recommended. Pre-climb training at Ama Dablam Base Camp is provided to enhance your skills.
You will need a Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit, Ama Dablam Expedition Permit, and a TIMS (Trekkers’ Information Management System) card.
The best seasons are Spring (March-May) and Autumn (September-November) due to stable weather and clear mountain views.
Multiple acclimatization days are included in the itinerary to reduce the risk of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). The team carries basic medication, and guides are trained to recognize and address altitude-related issues.
Accommodation includes teahouses and lodges during the trek, and tents at the base camp and higher camps during the climb.

















